Love Raj Singh Dharmshaktu, Indian Mountaineer to Climb Mount Everest 7 Times
| IOP Desk - 02 Dec 2023

IOP News Desk

New Delhi, Dec 2, 2023: Love Raj Singh Dharmshaktu is Dy comadt DC in Border Security Force – BSF. He has the distinction of being the only Indian to climb Mount Everest 7 times. He started his career of mountaineering at the tender age of 17 as a helper for an expedition to Nanda Kot 6861Meter. He ended up reaching the top of the peak. He has imparted training in rock climbing, trekking, ice craft, snow craft, environmental protection, disaster management and mountaineering to the BSF Officers and Other Ranks since 2002 onwards. Besides BSF, he has imparted mountaineering training to the youth and passed on the love he has for adventure to them while working as an instructor under OSD Almorah, OSD Uttarkashi and Nehru Institute of Mountaineering – NIM . He was Born in Bona, Pithoragar district, Uttarakhand. His village is very remote and till date there is no infrastructure like road, electricity, telephone there.  He received his Basic, Advance and Instructor Mountaineering Course Training from Nehru Institute of Mountaineering. He also successfully completed search and rescue course from NIM

He climbed Mount Everest for the first time in 1998 using the North Face route from China. He has gone for a total of 11 Everest expeditions out of which he reached the top 7 times. His first successful ascent was in 1998 then 2006, 2009, 2012, 2013 ,2017 and 2018. He has been on Mt. Everest expeditions from various routes like the Khangsung Face and North Face from Tibet – China, South Col route of Nepal and east ridge of Tibet, China. In 2001, he reached a height of 7700mtr on the East Ridge of Mt Everest; this route is highly ridden with avalanches.

He was the climbing leader of the   BSF Expedition to Mount Everest in 2018. Under his dynamic leadership all the 15 members reached the summit and created a record of 100 percent success. This has been his seventh summit of Everest. He has become the first Indian to climb Everest seven times. BSF team went with a mission of cleaning Mount Everest as a part of clean Ganga clean Himalaya campaign. The BSF team of climbers brought back 700 kgs of garbage   from higher camps of Everest. In spring of 2021 he went on his eleventh Everest expedition as a climbing leader of the para milrary forces of India. The team managed to reach upto camp 3 and could not summit due to bad weather.

He has also gone to the top of Mt. Kunchenjunga summit once in 2008. Kunchenjunga is the highest peak in India and the third highest peak in the world. Some other notable peaks he has climbed are Kamet (third highest peak of India), Abigamain, Sathopanth (thrice), Bhurphu Dhura (first ascent) , Mumatsang Kangri , Nanda Kot , Nanda Bhanar among several others 

He has been leader and deputy leader of various mountaineering expeditions. Till date Love Raj has gone for about 55 mountaineering expeditions in the Himalayas and participated in several high-altitude treks.

He has also done other adventure activities like paragliding, rafting and skiing. He has also skied and done ice fall climbing in the Austrian Alps besides the Himalayas.

Mountaineering is fraught with injuries. Love Raj Singh has braved injuries.  In 1999, on his third attempt to Everest while attempting from the Kangshung Face in China, splintered rocks came over Love Raj Singh and hit him in his left eye. He had to be treated at AIIMS at once. In 2001 when he was climbing Everest from the East Ridge in China, they got caught in the avalanche while sleeping in tent and narrowly escaped being injured seriously.  

In 2006, Love Raj was the Deputy leader to BSF Everest expedition. In 2013 there were two records under his leadership on Everest - first woman amputee in whole world to climb Mt. Everest; first man to climb Everest from both Nepal and China in the shortest time of 8 days.

He has a particular commitment to the preservation of environment and always professes environmentally friendly methods. His expeditions to the Everest have always been Eco Friendly 

In 2013 Uttarakhand saw the worst natural calamity which claimed thousands of lives. As a part of the BSF Team, he was deeply involved in rehabilitation work in Kedarnath Valley for six months. In 2015 when he was on Everest expedition there was an earthquake which claimed several lives. He helped in the rescue work of helping the survivors

In the future Love Raj aspires to explore new places in the Himalayas and around the world. He wants to keep on imparting the love of Adventure and Environment in the youth by instructing on mountaineering and leading Mountaineering and trekking expeditions. He is very passionate about preserving the environment and teaches people about the importance of the same

In recognition of his achievements in the field of mountaineering he has been honoured with many awards. He has been given the highest adventure award of the country namely the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award in 2003. He has also been awarded by Sir Edmund Hillary in 2003 during the golden jubilee celebrations of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF). He has also been awarded the Gold Medal by the IMF in 2009 for excellence in mountaineering. He has been conferred by the Padma Shree, in 2014 for mountaineering.

 


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