Here’s a roundup of some of the hottest collections at the Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week Autumn Winter’ 2019(LMIFW AW’19) :
With a lot of florals, distortion of line and prints with bold tribal prints, cowl necks, big shoulders, big sleeves and asymmetrical skirts on the runway, famous fashion designer Rina Dhaka again proved here uniqueness in her creations.
Following a gothic theme, Fashion designer Kommal and Ratul Sood’s collection was heavy on velvet. Hues such as brown, green, aubergine and teal were seen on jackets, trousers and suits, giving them a luxe, festive-ready look. Nitin Bal Chauhan, Kommal and Ratul Sood paid special attention to monochromatic colour schemes. While the former turned heads with black sketch prints against white backgrounds, the latter created a striking look with a co-ordinated ensemble of jacket, trousers and shirt in the same print.
Fashion designer Shalini James’s collection featured dark, mysterious forest colours in natural dyes, like jackal brown, peacock blue, berry red, acai green and sultry indigo. Her collection was inspired by Chitrakoot, a forested town in Madhya Pradesh.
In Fashion designer Pallavi Mohan’s feathers, used as luxe embellishments sheer and metallic gowns, continues to be huge for winter. Boasting a jewel-toned colour scheme, the collection is inspired by Simply Studio 54, a glamorous Manhattan nightclub and discotheque popular in the ’70s.
Pleated frills and ruffles were a prominent feature of Fashion designer Dolly J’s collection. Red carpet-ready gowns with asymmetrical hems were paired with intricate ruffled detailing on the body and skirt in a cascading effect.
Fashion designer Amrich by Amit and Richard went with large box checks on handloomed and handwoven fabrics to create an impression on the runway. A co-ordinated jacket and trouser ensemble of black and white box checks was the defining look.
The Bohemian aesthetic is perfect for summer but fashion designer Vineet Bahl made it work for Autumn/Winter with his collection of vintage floral-printed dresses, baggy trousers and tunics. There was also a focus on embroidered detailing and voluminous sleeves.
Fashion designer Manoviraj Khosla and Charu Parashar threw out the rulebooks and went with fall florals for men. In Manoviraj’s collection, floral embroidery and prints found their way onto leather and waterfall jackets. Charu, on the other hand, stuck to dark floral prints on athleisure jackets and track pants.
Designer Samant Chauhan, keeping his focus on sustainable fashion, came up with minimalistic prints that looked big on the runway. Hues of white with red and black to break the monotony dominated his collection.
Fashion designer Sahil Kocchar’s collection ‘Hridya’ was about environment-friendly fabrics, presented in a gamut of colours ranging from mustard stripes, pink, pristine ivory, and deep blue.
As per the Fashion designer Rahul Mishra, his collection, this year looks back on a decade-long journey that began with the exploration of an important fact of life – metamorphosis. The creations at the runway saw interesting contrasts and mix of fabrics, geometric prints, asymmetrical cuts that combined Eastern mysticism with Western meticulousness and highlighted the overlap.
For famous fashion designer Rahul Mishra, who completed 10 years in the fashion industry, the show was a walk down the memory lane – Retrospection- Metamorphosis & Reinvention. It was all about going back to the roots on the lines of retrospection, metamorphosis and reinvention. His collection included a variety of fabrics and techniques, from gossamer tulle and organza to lush velvets along with traditional aari work with resham thread work, to French knots inspired by pointillism art. Mythic, elegant and an ode to the evolving design aesthetics.
“I grew up in the sleepy village of Malhausi, some 83 kms from Kanpur City. I set out in life armed with a degree in Physics. But, the scholastic facts that stimulated the mind of a young man, did not compare to the grandmothers’ stories that nourished the soul of a young boy. What was simply a delightful recreational activity in childhood, became a precious treasure trove of inspiration to deal with existential philosophies of adulthood. The artistic genesis of life, the spirituality in its pre-ordained symphony, the role of change in igniting its versatility – they all began to captivate me,” says Rahul Mishra.
His collection looks back on a decade-long journey, that began with the exploration of an important fact of life – metamorphosis. I didn’t consciously intend to make the concept a brand signature when I launched ‘The Butterfly Effect’ back in 2010. Maybe, it has become one, because that first exploration was honest, straight from the heart; and steeped in the metamorphosis of the Artist from the Physicist.
“Since I’m learning something new every day, this metamorphosis is continuous – both within me and within the brand., “Rahul Mishra said.
Designer Suket Dhir, who also focused on environmental-friendly fabrics and sustainable fashion, came up with a collection that displayed fashion forward and minimal wastage designs – ranging from casual wears to formals.
Suket Dhir’s collection, ‘He for She’ looked at menswear silhouettes for women. Blazers, Bombers, blazers, shirts
and trousers all in narrow fits and simple structures was a powerful take on gender-neutral fashion.
Amita Gupta’s Sustainable has worked towards the amalgamation of two contrasts. For a woman who is gentle yet bold and experimental at heart. Something as ethereal and noble as Silk and Zari is mingling with the bold and resilient Denim to create a collection for the modern woman. Hand woven by the weavers of Banaras, the collection aims to fuse together opposites in the most effortless yet poised way possible.
ARCVSH by designer Pallavi Singh focused on using materials that are less hazardous in nature in interesting silhouettes and patterns.
According to Pallavi Singh, “Our AW’19 collection is an inspiration from the thought – “The beautiful Lifestyles that we have created and enjoying by imprinting a rather devastating and catastrophic impact on our Environment and its Natural resources leading to cease its own Existence”. She further syas, “We are in Charge-Now” as our collection expresses is how we would like to remind ourselves at least on our stand against the Earth’s Questionable future as we are experiencing it today and calls for a conscious effort in using the materials that has the least impact on earth if discarded.
We see it should be more of a practice than an ideology. And we strongly feel, it's time now to take Re-usability/Sustainability up as primary focus and implement as part of our Design creation and our overall business operations. It has become intrinsic to Fashion now more than ever. It is the need of the hour as this is the way the fashion should pave its way out for future, as it helps reduce the waste and chemicals generated every year to support the clothing industry.”
Designer Diksha Khanna’s HADITH - a desert storm is an interpretation of denim and intricate knits
was quite a fresh take on the material and gave the fabric a new spin with crocheted patchwork textures, cross stitch embroideries in a peculiar style.
In Diksha Khanna’s work, the mysterious, narrow bylanes serpenting through Doha and Oman, can be imagined in yellowing history books as they reveal, there is more than what meets eye.
Imagine this interpreted through the prism of Zari as it meets Khadi and Denim this season. Three elements that are disparate, yet they amalgamate seamlessly, almost becoming soulmates. The meandering pathways through
souks, and the multisensory overload of travelling through these Arab provinces inspires the Autumn Winter 2019 range of womenswear. An intriguing mix of the ancient and the uber-modern in the pockets of bygone eras in the urban centres are like time capsules, where one can disappear for a bit, and then return to the present.
Designer duo Pankaj & Nidhi’s autumn/winter 2019 showcase highlighted the brand’s forté—surface embellishment. The collection was inspired by the duo’s recent visit to the Rijksmuseum museum in Amsterdam, Netherlands.
Diksha Khanna’s ripped denim sari, worn by the likes of Sonam Kapoor Ahuja, quickly won fashion’s
favour. The designer returned to the autumn/winter 2019 runway with another collection that championed denim—there were a few denim saris in the line-up, use of crochet, draped silhouettes in white and shimmering pantsuits. Inspired by the Middle East, the collection hit t he spot for modest dressing.
This year, Liva, a new age fabric from the Aditya Birla Group, had announced its partnership with Fashion Design Council of India’s (FDCI) to showcase India’s first Green Heart Fashion Show with a thought leading initiative to promote the concept of sustainability through their collection and products. “The mission was to showcase a series of collectionfeaturing designers championing sustainability and eco-friendly fashion practices. Liva has taken this step of associating with FDCI to support responsible fashion across the value chain,” said Mr. Rajeev Gopal, Global Chief Sales and Marketing Officer, Birla Cellulose on Liva’s association with FDCI. “With textiles consumptions increasing by the hour and the emergence of fast fashion, the industry at large must realize the need for sustainability to save the future” he further added.
The Lotus Make-Up India Fashion Week Autumn Winter’ 2019 at the Jawahar Lal Nehru Stadium in Delhi was most exciting event for the fashion lovers in the national capital which came to find out what is new in Indian fashion. With inputs from – Vogue India / HT/Indulge Expr ess
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